Good Indian food and cocktails, but not much molecular food on offer

Stepping out of the lift to enter the Molecule Air Bar, I faced a bunch of framed “blueprints" of weapons. As I walked into the restaurant tentatively, I was greeted by fake machine guns and machine tools mounted on the walls, exposed yet “art-ified" copper pipes snaking along the walls, and stunning filament lamps. A manager with a blinking LED badge (alternating between “Molecule" and his name) handed us to our server Ram, who, like the rest of the crew, was dressed in a tee and camouflage cargo pants.

A large space with ample seating, pleasant, conversation-friendly music, Molecule had my “restobar reservations" melting away quickly.

Most of the Indian food. We started with the Cheddar and Slow Roasted Chicken Tikka Kulcha ( ₹ 165): four mini kulchas that came with a butter chicken espuma (read foam) in a shot glass. It was hearty, cheesy and addictively good. The espuma, though, was simply liquid. We followed it up with the Ghee Roast Soya Keema ( ₹ 225), beautifully presented with four mini Malabar parathas hanging on hooks. A great vegetarian option.

We also tried the non-vegetarian Ghee Roast Keema Matar ( ₹ 345): We were expecting a Kundapur-style masala, but it turned out to be a good old Punjabi keema mattar in ghee with peas with perfect bite, not a mashed mess. Next came Mutton Galouti Tacos ( ₹ 265), two tacos stuffed with lettuce, pudina (mint) mayo and mashed galouti, flavourful and filling. The Pav Bhaji Fondue ( ₹ 245) came with velvety smooth “fondue bhaaji" and giant-sized croutons toasted with butter. We dunked the croutons in the bhaaji and thoroughly enjoyed the crunchy bite with the comforting taste of the bhaaji. We would have appreciated those giant fondue skewers though.

The service was attentive, friendly and caring. The appetizers were generously portioned. Best of all, it was complete value for money.

While the place is meant to have molecular food, not much of that was on offer, save the constant fumes of liquid nitrogen in dishes. It may be a good thing, given that the trend is on its way out and no one seems to be able to crack it well. The Molecular Puckha Shots ( ₹ 125), for instance, were over the top, with five different flavoured waters that came in test tubes submerged in liquid nitrogen, while the stuffing came in a mini pressure cooker.

The Chinese selection is avoidable. We had the Veg Mongolian Bowl ( ₹ 295), a bowl of rice topped with tofu and cauliflower and dressed in a weak red Schezwan sauce. Most uninspired and insipid. The elaborately plated Non Veg Chinatown ( ₹ 325) was chilli chicken and noodles, as Chinjabi as it can get.

The pleasant evening fell apart with the try-too-hard desserts: The Royal Ending ( ₹ 175), a phirni brûlée with paan ice cream was sour and the ice cream overpowering. The Gulab Jamun Carpaccio Cheesecake ( ₹ 225) was as confused in taste as in title. You really cannot carpaccio G-Jams. And the cheesecake tasted salty. The Rasgulla Tiramisu ( ₹ 195) was sent back, as were all the desserts after a token tasting. They were gracious enough not to charge us.

A meal for four (four appetizers, one main dish, six drinks; desserts were not charged) cost us ₹ 4,526.

Molecule Air Bar, noon-12.30am, SCO 53, Fourth floor, Sector 29, Gurgaon (tel. 8826677705).

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